Monday, May 24, 2010

Navy blue jacket

Digging through my winter wardrobe is producing some old creations...  This jacket I made about two years ago and wore quite a lot for the last two winters.  This year I looked at it a bit sideways, wondering if it would "do" for this year, but I think so...  Sometimes I feel as though this jacket is a bit "classic" for my taste.  I wouldn't describe myself as a "classic" dresser.  I don't know how I would describe my oeuvre, but it's not classic...
This jacket is made of intense navy blue Indian silk hessian, I mentioned I used it here, for dying.  When I wash this thing the water is like ink.  Seriously, I kid you not...  I dyed a white shirt pale blue from the washings of this jacket once... yes, on purpose!  Amazingly the jacket is still as intensely dark dark blue as ever.
I had read somewhere that in couture jackets iron-on-interfacing is a huge No-No, capitals intentional, and they use a very light strong fabric instead.  So when I made this I decided to bypass the iron-on interfacing, as an experiment.  But what to use in its place?  I don't know what they actually use, and short of pulling apart a couture jacket to see for myself I don't know how to find out.  And is that going to happen?  No...!
In view of the clues "light" and "strong" I decided to try bemsilk, as both the sew-in interfacing and as the lining.  And do you know what?  It worked a treat!  It made the sewing process a bit more challenging as bemsilk is so darned slippery-dippery, but the jacket is, yes, it is light and strong, with no stiffness.  The beauty of the silk hessian is how it looks as smart and tailored as linen but without the very high crease factor.
The pattern I used allows for a lining in the shoulder/back area of the jacket but is otherwise unlined; I decided to line the jacket fully, sleeves and all.  And I'm very glad I did, not just for the warmth during winter, but also the aforementioned un-colourfastness of the fabric... all my shirts would have ended up with blue underarms if this jacket was not lined!!  Wisdom in hindsight!

Jacket; Simplicity4698, navy blue silk hessian
Skirt; Vogue 7303, bottle green cotton velveteen
Camisole; Country Road
Cardigan; Metalicus
Stockings; Metalicus
Boots; Fornarina, from David Jones


  1. I think your jacket looks perfect on you.

    Thank goodness you lined it.

  2. looks beautiful, nice rich colors.

  3. It looks wonderful, i love the colour x

  4. Nice! The colour is beautiful.
    I've been really curious about non-adhesive interfacing too, and went to one of the bigger fabric stores in Stockholm to check out theirs. They didn't even understand what I was looking for!
    I think they are a thing of the past that will make a return in the near future, like full fat dairy-products and real butter have.
    But I guess I should go to a proper tailor and ask there instead, until they do :-).

  5. Your jacket looks beautiful and suits you :)

  6. mmm, I love the jacket. And the boots are fabulous. Of course, I love classic shapes (Though am trying to get away from using them all the time and experiment with some others) so I think this is great!

  7. here is a good article on different interfacings, and yes, I had heard also that fusibles are frowned on for couture garments.